There are many ways of securing hives prior to moving I use Spanset hive straps. If tightened up to the right tension the strap will “twang” when plucked.
When using spansets make sure the tape on the buckle is next to tape. *tip*
Hives are traditionally moved by the rule of three, less than three feet or more than three miles.Why?
Bees are highly focused on their hive, and if moved more than three feet they become confused and losses become an issue. More than three miles and they are out with their flight lines, which are roughly a mile or a little more in the UK and so the risk of them re-finding an old flight line and returning to the old site is reduced to near nil.
However there are cheats for this.
Winter: Move by shutting in and shift them to where ever you want, unblock and put an obstacle over the doorway and they will when they come out of cluster realise they are moved and re-orientate.
Summer. Say it quietly but the same applies if done late evening and quietly. There will be some losses doing it in the active summer but I achieved a move this year with none so it can be done. I closed them in, moved them at 10pm, and blocked the entrance with grass, they were out and flying 48 hours later and all was well.
By the way the humble builders barrow is an excellent tool for moving hives.